The Breitling brand, synonymous with aviation and precision timekeeping, boasts a rich history filled with iconic designs. While the name "Breitling 120" isn't a formally designated model name used by Breitling themselves, it's a common shorthand used by collectors and enthusiasts to refer to certain Breitling chronographs produced in the 1950s, specifically those exhibiting a case size around 40mm and a general aesthetic associated with the evolution from the earlier rectangular-pusher chronographs to the more refined, round-pusher designs. This article will explore the fascinating evolution of Breitling chronographs during this period, focusing on the key design changes that marked a significant shift in the brand's aesthetic and functionality, highlighting the models that bridge the gap between the earlier, more angular designs and the later, more streamlined chronographs of the 1960s and beyond. We will delve into the specifics of the changes mentioned – the transition from rectangular to round pushers, the shift in hand design, the increased crown size, and the updated hour markers – and place these modifications within the broader context of Breitling's history and the collecting market.
The 1950s represented a crucial decade for Breitling. The post-war boom fueled a demand for sophisticated, reliable timepieces, and Breitling, with its strong aviation heritage, was perfectly positioned to capitalize on this. However, the designs of the early 1950s still carried echoes of the preceding era, retaining certain stylistic elements that would soon be phased out in favor of a more modern aesthetic. The Chronomat, a cornerstone of Breitling's collection, underwent significant changes during this period, paving the way for the iconic designs we associate with the brand today. The reference 808 Chronomat, in particular, stands as a prime example of this transitional phase. Its evolution exemplifies Breitling's commitment to continuous improvement and adaptation to evolving tastes.
The most striking change in the Chronomat ref. 808 and similar models of the era was the transition from rectangular to round pushers. The earlier rectangular pushers, a feature found on many pre-1950s Breitling chronographs, while possessing a certain elegance, presented some ergonomic challenges. The round pump pushers, introduced in the ref. 808 and subsequent models, offered a more intuitive and comfortable user experience. This seemingly small detail significantly impacted the overall usability and appeal of the watch. The smoother, more integrated design of the round pushers contributed to a more streamlined and modern aesthetic, moving away from the more angular, almost Art Deco influences of earlier designs. This transition reflects a broader trend in watch design during the 1950s, as manufacturers sought to improve functionality and create more comfortable, user-friendly timepieces.
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